04.03.09 Baja Mexico
We actually left Los Barilles today. Back on the dirt road. There was no wind today. It was hot, up to 43 degrees. Again, we pushed our bikes through the deep sand on some parts. Further along the ocean. It was so calm end quiet, that we could hear the stringrays flappping. Sometimes the hills were so steep that we had to push the bikes with the heavy weight together, first one bike, then the other... I realizised again thet we live in complete uncertainty, not knowing what is going to happen in the next 10 min, and where we stay the night. After a good workout we found a hotel where we could fill up our water bottles. We also had a little rest in the shade before we kept going. Then, not much further, we found a restaurant where we stopped. It was a simple hall and only one table was prepared for quests. We ordered and waited about one hour until they served it. They probably didn't expect any guests at all and had to get the food first... Then we kept going and set up our tent on a lonely beach in El Cardonal. It feels so good to camp at a beach again. We set up our tent right next to a wall. Behind the wall was a bar and a pool. There was no sign of any people, it seemed that there haven't been any people for quite a while.. We sneaked into the pool and had an illegal swim. That was also our shower, so nice... We looked out to the ocean, there were no whales anymore. I guess that's it. We passed their final destination. We lied in our tent and listened to the waves. It will be our last beach camping for a while. It was a hot day without any wind, lots of pushing and riding through deep sand, we made about 5km per hour. Bhinti was asleep before it got dark...
Resume: Los Barilles-El Cardonal, 22km, 43 degrees
LINK: Photos 0127-0137
05.03.09 Baja Mexico
We got up at 6.15am, having a long day ahead. It was a beautiful sunrise. Bhinti cooked porridge and I put down the tent. A man came by and wanted to sell us some property. It was probably the same man that parked tat the beach for a while close to our tent last night, listening to tuba music. He might have thought we could be potential buyers. 8am, it was hot alrealdy. Bhinti went for a swim and I felt tempted to jump into that pool again. I finally opened the gate to the pool and sneaked. I didn't have any clothes on and hoped nobody would see me. What a nice swim! Today we will hit the mountains. People told us it is a rough road but doible. We left at 8.20am and kept riding the sand road, trying to keep the balance while riding through the deep sand. Before we left El Cardonal we asked a woman where we could find water. She offered us her water, so we walked to her house. She even gave us purified water. It was very nice of her. She said she had 3 kids, they all go to school. On mondays they wear a uniform at school, white shirt and blue pants. Only on monday though. We left the village and we got closer and closer to these mountains, they looked quite serious. We will see... After about 10km we stopped at the last village before we got into he mountains to fill up our water bottles. We asked a womanhn for tap water, but she hand't any. People don't have tap water here, they buy big bottles. The village had a tiny store. We had to ask to find it as from the outside it didn't look like a store at all. We were at a real Mexican village, no tourists come here as this village was off the road. Hard to believe but this store had real chocolate bars, made in America! We couldn't find any chocolate in all other stores, but here. Why do they have gringo chocolate when there are no tourists here??? From one house we heard happy tuba music. We were wondering: Why are people staring at us like cows? One hour later we knew why... The road became worse. It was narrow with lots of loose rocks and steep hills. The road was so steep that we both were pushing one bike after another up the hill. It was so hot... What a road! People have told us that this road is doable. We probably must look taufher than we are! During the next big climb we stopped and went through our stuff and thruew out things to get rid of some weight. We ate as much food as possible. The conditions were rough but the scenery was just breath taking. The sweat was just dropping of us and after a while we saw an RV (caravan) between two mountains, the people waved. What do people think when they see us??? Poor crazy bastards! What a big climb! We pushed up one bike, it was noon, so hot! We still had a long way to go to go over the mountain range so we thought we might better stay here and rest. We asked the people in the RV if we could stay. They were Mexican people and very friendly. They even offered us some of their purified water. About 100m further was a little unfinished house, right at the beach. We asked if we can camp nearby, no problemo. We we picked up the bike that we had already pushed up the hill and walked to the house to rest. This hill was so steep, you couldn't even ride it downhill. The house was made of cement. So we had nice cold cement to ly on, nice shade. I was exhausted, lied down and didn't move for quite a while while Bhinti went for a swim. We saw manta rays jumping. We even had chairs and a table. There were lots of goats surrounded by a fence. They were very young ones, some of them were just one week old. They did high jumpes, they even did the head fighting alreay. We spread our gear, then a truck came and stopped. Three Mexican men filled up the water tanks. They were very friendly and greeted us. They did their thing and didn't leave. After a while we weren't sure if these people were workes like the 2 people in the RV, so we asked them after a while.No, they were the owners of that peace of land and of the house. And they didn't say a word to us! They welcomed us and told us that they build the little house for their big family. Such a small house for a big family. They are so humble. We actually saw them 2 days later passing us in a car on our way to La Paz. Lot of things you can learn from the Mexicans... So we asked them if it okay that we stay here for a night in our tent, feeling like intrudors. They said we can stay here as long as we wanted! They even offered us their water, which they got from a little well about 2km far away from here. Here we are, only because the road was so steep and it was so hot. Staying on a beautiful piece of land, sheltered between 2 mountains with lots of goats, right at the beach, having the house, shade and water. It was very special. We sat up outr tent and sat on a big rock at the beach for a while. We saw lots of jumping mantas and fish. This is a spot I could imagine to live. Remote, simple, at the ocean, having some animals and a simple mudhouse. Paradise! Here we are at the beach again, listening to the gentle waves, the moon was getting bigger and bigger...
Resume: El Cardonal-Goat ranch, 15km, 43 degrees
LINK: Photos 0138-0158 , videos 042-044
06.03.09 Baja Mexico
At night we heard the goats, another beautiful sunrise. We packed, filled up our water bottles, had breakfast and left this beautiful place. It was cloudy today, oh yes! Okay, the same hill again. We pushed bike for bike up and were soaked already... The steep hills and the dirt road continued that way. Up and down and up and down! Most of the uphills we pushed our bikes together, one by one again... Sometimes we also had to walk down as the hill was too steep to ride down. For the first 6km it took us 2.5 hours!!! Pushing one bike up, walking the same road back down, do the same with the second bike. We left the oceanside and rode through the mountains. Lots of puffing today, that's for sure! We must be crazy. Good we stopped yesterday to fill up with water and energy. After a while we made it up to the top and looked down on the other side. It was so quiet and peaceful. These colors of the scenery are so beautiful... In the distance we could see a flat area. Down there somewhere must be our next destination... Los Planes, a little Mexican village. We enjoyed the downhill and got our breath back. In the early afternoon we arrived in Los Planes. The last part was even an asphalt road. Okey dirt road, that's it for while... One thing I want to tell: When we were doing the uphill part, Bhinti got angry with his shoes so he threw one away and had to get it afterwards while crawling on his hand and knees half through the cactii. I tried not to laugh and to look really serious... :-) This trip is probably driving us insane... In Los Planes we had some good food. There were no hotels and no campgrounds but a public park with water. So we decided to stay there for the night. We went there and found a green spot! Where do you find grass in the desert normally? We had a nice rest on the soft grass underneath the trees. Birds were singing and free chickens were running around. We waited until it got dark and set up the tent at a sheltered dark spot. After we finished and we were lying in our tent, flood lights came on unexpectedly. They were all over the place, it was so bright... And it was noisy too as the guys played base ball. We found another spot, quite sheltered and dark. So we moved out all our gear and carried the tent to the new spot. Our lesson is: don't stay on public parks, you don't know what is going to happen, rather stay in the desert where there are no people.
Resume: Goatranch-Los Planes, 16km, 36 degrees, partly cloudy
LINK: Photos 0159-0176
07.03.09 Baja Mexico
During the night we could hear two owls. And there was one bird, he sounded quite similar to a black bird, he kept singing almost all night long, even at 3am. It is the first time for me, that I heard a bird singing during the night. We are riding to La Paz today, our final destination in the Baja. We saw the road disappearing in the distance on the top of the mountains. It went straight up without any curves. From here it looked like a skilift. The first 3km were even, then we climbed. We made our steady 5km per hour up and up and up. After 2.5 hours we arrived at the top and looked back, down into the valley. Many times the air smelled like rottening cows. It was quite cooler here and very beautiful. We passed some remote ranches... then the reward came. We had a 20km long downhill. We were just flying into La Paz, the air got warmer and warmer the more downhill we left behind. We rode 12km through the city until we finally got to the ocean. So much traffic and noises, it was our first Mexican city. There was a lot of street life and music going on. We explored the promenade and had some food. A Mexican guitarr player played for us at our table. It was quite romantic. We checked in in a hotel and as soon my head hit the pillow in the evening I was asleep... No more riding in the Baja, it was a wonderful time here.
Resume: Los Planes-La Paz, 56km, 36 degrees, cloudy
LINK: Photos 0177-0182
08.03.09 Baja Mexico
We were still in bed when a guy opened our moscito net in front of our window from the hallway he looked in. The dresser was right next to the window. Immediately Bhinti activated his wolfy nature and made some loud scary noises... the man left quickly without taking anything. Okay, that was our first experience with a thief. We checked the times for the ferry going to the mainland, to Mazatlan, and decided to leave today. We packed and left. The ferry left in La Paz but to the ferry terminal we still had 17km riding ahead of us. When we got there we checked for prices and found out that there was another company mainly for trucks and other commercial vehicles for half the price only, also leaving today. That was a no-brainer. After we filled up our tummies with garlic fish we hopped on that commercial ferry. It was kind of a freighter, far away from being booked out. It had no passenger onramp. What for??? While we were waiting to hop on we observed these huge trucks how they drove backwards into the ferry, not bad! On the ferry was a small dining room, where food was served on certain times, and there was also a small room with seats and a TV. There was not much room for hanging around. We left at 4.30pm and the ferry trip took 16 hours. We stayed on the deck and watched the beautiful sunset. The Baja became more and more distant, adios beautiful Baja... We also saw some dolphins, they put on a show for us. We stayed on the deck, also during the night. We spread out our tarp out and made a nice bed with our mattresses and sleeping bags, sleeping on the deck, listening to these huge engines...
Resume: La Paz-Ferry terminal, 17km, staying the night on the ferry heading to Mazatlan
LINK: Photos 0183-0194
09.03.09 Mainland Mexico
He didn't have much sleep but it was a very nice and unusual night. We got up at 6am and watched the beautiful sunrise. We were watching the birds how they flew from high above right into the water, like crashing into the water, hunting for fish. I wondered if they ever get headaches. We arrived in Mazatlan at 9am. The climate was not so dry anymore then in the Baja, it was quite humid. We put our bags back on our bikes and left the ferry, we are on the mainland now. After 5 min riding we passed a car wash. We stopped and gave our bikes a real good wash. We realized that our pump, that we left on the bike, was gone... Another experience... We hopped back on our bikes and after a short distance we ended up in the middle of a beautiful square in the old part of town. What a nice surprise. We were looking for a bike shop and explored the city at the same time, we rode through the old part of the city, through some industrial parts, we passed slums along the river... We found a bike shop. The owner wasn't really sure what he had in his shop. So he said he doesn't know if he has a pump but he will have a look. Nothing was in order. All the parts that he sold were in some shelves all on top of each other, without any order. So he just took his time and lifted all the products up and... found a pump! After we got our pump we thought about either leaving the city and head south or staying in the city. We felt like staying, so we headed back to the old, historical part and found a nice and inexpensive hotel. The city is pretty and has everything you want. There are these beautiful squares with lots of restaurants and chairs outside, the streets are narrow, there is the market with all sorts of things, there are streets around the market with lots of small and big different shops, lots of street food, people listen to Mexican uplifting music everywhere you go, lots of small streets with colourful houses, the beach is only 2 blocks away from where we stay, there is not much crime here. What a special place. It reminded me of South Spain, but here it is wilder and there is so much more street food. We had an early night.
Resume: Stay in Mazatlan.
LINK: Photos 0195-0201 , videos 045-047
10.03.09 Mainland Mexico
We went to a dentist as to get some dental work done. We got an appointment for the afternoon. That means we will stay here for at least 4 days. We found a really nice accommodation in the historical part of town with a nice court yard and a fountain in the middle. Pigeons are enjoying the fountain, drinking and bathing. So we packed our gear and moved to the new accommodation. We had appartment number 7, which is my favourite number. Right next to our door is a cage with four happy budgies. We have a real kitchen with a fridge, a stove and potable tab water. We also have a table where we can eat, we have a couch and we have a cupboard and a beautiful bedroom. The colours are warm, walls are painted in yellow, bright blue and green, we have a high ceiling. We could hear the gently splashing water from the fountain. It is slightly different then camping... We went to the dentist in the afternoon. He had military boots on, also military pants. Reason: He works for the military as a dentist. He hardly spoke any English, good for me to practice my Spanish. He was very nice and had a good sense of humor. Mazatlan, what a nice place to stay for a while...
Resume: Stay in Mazatlan.
LINK: Photos 0202-0211 , videos 049-050

23.03.09 Mainland Mexico
We have been here in Mazatlan for 2 weeks now and we are leaving tomorrow morning. We are excited getting back on our bikes. The dental work is all done and my infection I had is cured. We are going to ride down the coast, it is 2500 km until to the border of Guatemala. See how long we will take... Mazatlan is a very nice place to spend 2 weeks. Our accommodation was beautiful. They even lead the sightseeing tours through this building. One day, when I came home I saw a tourist coming out from our apartment! Our door was open and Bhinti was laughing. So funny! The nights are noisy. There are some bars right around the corner and the streets are narrow with lots of buildings on both sides, so the sound can travel really well. We hear music, chatter, singing, once we heard the sirene of the ambulance, cars are passing with loud music, I guess on maximum volume. It is crazy and it is good. Sometimes they have the trumpet going. I love it! Good we have our earplugs. That's probably why this beautiful place is real bargain. We also sleep with our t-shirts over our heads because the street lights are so bright. This is Mexico, the people here know how to party! And the university is also right across the street. During the day you hear the budgies having a good time, you hear the water of the fountain and they play romantic music. The beach was only 2 blocks away and the market was not much further. We spent some evenings watching movies that we downloaded, while burning candles and incense.

We enjoyed the food here. There were these really simple street restaurants, go for it when it is there because it is very likely that this restarurant will disappear and on the following day you don't even see a sign of it. They just take all the tables and seats away, just gone... they probably aren't in the mood for a restaurant on these days. Yes, the streetfood, they are there, then they are gone, you never know, so take the chance when you see them! The other day we saw a lifted lid right in the middle of the street. A guy was working in the sewer with his manhole cover off. No barricades, no warning for the drivers, nothing... He didn't look squashed and no car was trapped in it so far! This is Mexico! On one square there are lots of shoe shiner guys. One next to the other. They all have these seats with foot rests and sun cover. Most of them are having a siesta in their own seats, waiting for clients. It is always something going on. On one square are lots of restaurants. The square is full of tables and chairs. Sometimes life bands are playing or people sell jewelry or books, having their little stands. Mexicans walk around with their guitar, viola and drums looking for customers that they can play for. It is a romantic place. One day we ate nuts on the square sitting on a bench. First there was only one pigeon, seconds later we were surrounded by many and more. They sat everywhere, on our feet, legs, labs, shoulders, they climbed up Bhinti's tummy, they even sat on my head. They went crazy and so did I! Cars were passing shouting commercials through their loudspeakers. And... not only in cars they blare out their commercials, also we heard it once out of plane that flew above us. It was so loud! They made advertising for LALA, which is a dairy product company. A was actually called Lala when I lived in New Zealand. It made me laugh! This is Mexico! The other day we ate in a restaurant where they displayed a big part of the menu at the door. These were no photos, they were actually real meals, cooked. This is also something I haven't seen before. This is Mexico! I went to a doctor, a specialist, to get checked. He was absolutely not in a hurry. At my first appointment he spent 45 min with me, at my second one 30 min. He listened to his classical music and had a good sense of humor. He really took it easy! I thought of doctors in other countries, where they tried to spend as little time as possible with their clients so they can make more money by treating more clients. The waiting room was simple, no computer. The woman who worked there, greeted the people who came in and told them who's next turn it is. And she chatted with the patients. A woman who was sitting next to me did the crosswords and asked the other people if they knew the missing words. They almost had a group discussion. This is Mexico! When you walk on the streets or on the sidewalk you might want to watch were you step. There might be a hazard, like a tree stump. I think these tree stumps in the middle of the sidewalks built a community as you can find them everywhere... And the police, lots of them are on bikes cruising along the beach promenade, nice job! This is Mexico! WE LOVE IT!!!!!!!! WE LOVE THE CH|AOS, THE SIMPLICITY AND THE ALIVENESS!!!
Resume: Stay in Mazatlan.
LINK: Photos 0212-0296 , videos 051-054

24.03.09 Mainland Mexico
We left beautiful Mazatlan today. It took us quite a while until we got out of town. There it was again, the smell of rottening animals, garbage and fish and smoke. We took the toll road. These roads are not so busy and have a wide shoulder. We passed lots of agricultural area and farmland, seeing the mountains in the distance. We passed a cemetery. From the distance it looked like a village because of all the little sheds, but they were actually graves. The cemetery was far away from any town, just in the middle of nowhere. The road had been straight for 80km, maybe there was one curve. Being on this road, we saw so many professional cyclists in cycling clothes and helmet on really fancy bikes. We got overtaken by so many cyclist since we have been on the road, but today we overtook our first cyclist! He carried a big plastic box. But it actually didn't take long and he overtook us with a smile on his face. Our destination for the night was Esquinapa. The map showed the city right on the toll road. We followed the sign but there was no city. We rode some kms, but still no city. We passed more and more people, they were all doing their workouts on the road, but still no city. It was really strange. Where was it? After quite a while we finally got there. Also what we realized was, that on one of the signs on the toll road, they changed the amount of kms to Esquinapa. Out of 13 they made 4, you could still see the old digits. What is this all about? A small update because they have moved the whole city??? We were hunting for hotels. There was one hotel without airconditioning. They removed the unit, so it left a big hole on the wall. Everybody who was in the mood could just get in, almost walk into that room. We better kept looking for another hotel. In one hotel we asked 2 different people for a price per night and got 2 different answers. The price probably depends on their mood, so we stuck with the person who offered us a room for a cheaper price... We had been 7 hours on our bikes, I was glad when my head hit the pillow...
Resume: Mazatlan-Esquinapa, 90km, 43 degrees.
LINK: Photos 0297-0302
25.03.09 Mainland Mexico
We stayed one day in Esquinapa. We were looking for a bike shop, hunting for a long-sleeve shirt. We asked for a shop and got sent to different directions, each time we asked. After quite a while having asked about 5 people we got to know the whole city and finally found a shop!!! We talked to people and have been told that the village 'Teacapan' about 40 km from here will be transformed withing 10 years into another Cancun, but bigger. Everything will change... Nothing will be the same. We haven't seen any tourists in Esquinapa, but this will all change I guess. The Mexicans are excited though. Here are so many poeple on bikes. Mothers carry their children on the bar, also children carry other children on the bar and on the handle bar. There was one child sitting on the bar and steered, and the other one was sitting on the saddle and paddled. They are really acrobatic. A man had his little son standing on the bar... There are so many children here! They all play outside. We also noticed, that everybody has his little business here, there are lots of tiny shops and also people on their bikes selling things. Really impressive! There don't seem to be any chaines, all the business are owned privatly. What I am also impressed with are the Mexican cars. These cars don't seem to have any parts left but they are still moving somehow. And most of the bikes are really old, they just keep them going. They don't waste things, that's for sure! It seems to be a country where nothing really matters. In the evening we were sitting on the square and watched the people. Guys were doing their stunts on BMX bikes, skate boards and roller blades. They were always watching for the police as they prohibited their actions on the square. This is probably the only place where they can practice. Where else could they go? We thought of checking out Teacapan tomorrw by bus, see what is going on there. It is a dead end road as Teacapan is located on a peninsula following by a big estuary. Maybe there is a boat that takes people to the other side of the estuary, it would be nice to cycle through the wetlands along the coast on small roads, off the beaten track...
Resume: Stay in Esquinapa.
LINK: Photos 0303-0309 , video 055
26.03.09 Mainland Mexico
Yesterday we checked out Teacapan, we took the bus and after 40 min we got there. It was a little village, no paved roads, only the mainroad was paved. Wow, there are so many palmtrees. We found somebody with a boat who wanted to take us to the other side of the estuary. Yes! So we would be coming back on our bikes to experience off the beaten track! We checked out the beach. It was a protected area as there was a reef in the distance. You could see and hear the big breakers from far away... On the other side of the estuary were also palm trees. There were hardly any people on the beach, many coconuts were lying on the ground, rottening. It is hard to believe that this beautiful and untouched part of this planet will be turned into a mega tourist area with lots of cement and boats...Oh, on our walk we saw a big frog, right on the beach, and then it made a big jump right into the ocean and swam away. I didn't know that there are frogs that could live in salt water... In the evening we took the bus back to Esquinapa. The busdriver was racing with other trucks on that narrow road. The trucks were loaded with peppers and other agricultural products. There were so many trucks. Everyday all these trucks are moved to the peninsula to get loaded, and back to the mainland again in the evening, every day...
Resume: Stay in Esquinapa
LINK: Photos 0310-0324
27.03.09 Mainland Mexico
We packed our bags and left to Teacapan. It this actually the first time that we know the city we are heading to. The road was flat as a pancake. We passed lots of pepper fields, the smell was quite intense. After we arrived we set up our tent in the trailer park between the coconut palms. There was only one RV parked. We have been told that all the other ones had left some days ago, back to Canada. The people in the RV told us they were leaving tomorrow. In Mexico are lots of Canadians and Americans. They stay here for the winter. Most of them are leaving in March or April, going back to the now warmer Canada. We rode to the little pier in the towncenter to catch "Lupe", the person who wants to bring us to the other side of the estuary by boat. On our way a boy asked us if we were looking for Lupe. How did he know? It was his friend and Lupe sent him to look for us.We talked to Lupe. Okay, we will cross tomorrow 10am. This is the beginning of the wetlands, quite similar to the Everglades in Florida. We rode our bikes back, got there just in time for the sunset. There were lots of many flies. They were biting but it didn'r really hurt, it was just annoying. At that time I had no clue about the effect that they had on me... We stayed in the tent and watched these tiny flies through the window, how they were waiting for us to come out...
Resume: Esquinapa-Teacapan, 40km, 36 degrees.
LINK: Photos 0325-0340
28.03.09 Mainland Mexico
Wow, it is quite humid here. Water was building up in our tent and dripped on our faces. I watched Bhintis face when a water drop reached his face. He made a funny face, that made me laugh. I probably made funny faces too whenever I felt a drop in my face. It was so different than the climate in the Baja. It was so dry there. The ocean was so calm here, but in the distance you could hear the brakers hitting the reef. When we packed our tent we saw a big iguana running into a bush. We had granola for breakfast and made our way to Lupe. When we rode through town, people were lying in their hammocks, lots of children were playing on the streets or riding their bikes, and of course you could hear the tuba playing. The houses have no front yard and most of the time the doors are open. Who cares! They know how to take it easy and how to party, that's for sure! We met Lupe at 10am. People were very kind, they helped to carry all our bags into the fisher boat, including the bikes. It was a beautiful boat ride, along the estuary. After about 15 min we arrived on the other side, in a little town called San Cayetan. We stopped at a restaurant. They had no electricity and probably used wood to keep the keep the stove going. We watched them how they squeezed piles of limes. Limes, Tequila and tacos run Mexico... We are off the beaten track now, that's for sure! No touristas! We rode on a sandy road through the little village and saw more people lying in their hammocks studying their eye lids from inside. After a while the road was very recently paved. So recently that after a while only half the road was paved and then in the distance we saw a tar machine paving the road. That was the end, back on a rocky road... We found out that we had to get another boat again which was not obvious on our map. We got to another village, Puerto de Cuatla, and asked some people from where the boats are meant to leave. They gave us some directions and we followed them. After a while the rocky road got really sandy and narrow, there were no people anymore, jsut jungle... riding into the middle of nowhere it seemed. Not sure if we really are on the right track we kept riding and pushing our bikes and all in a sudden we could hear some music. Yay! We got to the end of the jungle and arrived at the estuary. There was a restaurant. We asked the people where we had to go to get a lift to the other side of the estuary. They didn't know and sent us to some other people. So we asked them. They were very relaxed, so relaxed that they hardly talked. I sqeezed the information out of them, that we just had to go to the beach and someone will come by boat in will pick us up. Okay.... What else could we do then rely on that information. We pushed our bikes along the beach to the ocean. There was a fisher boat, but no people. After a while we saw a man with his fishing rod coming closer. We asked him what we had to do and if this was the right place to wait. He just nodded and told us to wait. It was so remote here, there were lots of shark heads and hammer head heads lying on the sand. They eat the sharks here. So we waited and... after a short while a fisher boat came. It was loaded with oysters, scallops and other stuff. After they unloaded the boat they helped us to carry the bikes into the boat. Then we left. Shortly we arrived on the other side of the estuary and the guy recommended us to ride on the beach for a while because the road is just sand. Okay.... so we started riding along the beach. It was low tide and the sand was firm, we also had tailwind. We saw lots of pelicans and also lots of dead crabs on the sand. So many. I wondered why they were all dead. It was a beautiful beach ride, we were the only ones on this wide long beach. After a while we saw a car track on the sand. We diceded to follow them and ended up on a little path. We got off our bikes and pushed them through the deep sand, it was quite hot and here they were again, these little biting flies... After a while we reached a house. A woman was there with her little boy. The little boy wanted to help me to push the bike through the sand. He had a rope which got caught in my back tire... I untangled it and in the mean time, these little flies had a feast, biting me and biting me until I finally finished untangling that rope. We asked the women for the direction to our next village and hopped on our bikes as quickly as possible to keep away these little mean creatures. We rode on a narrow firm sand road and passed the next village, Puerta de las Palapares. It was a nice rural town. Sandy roads, simple houses, lots of people and lots of music. 13 km to Santa Cruz which was our destination for today. The road was paved again, but not for long... and we ended up riding on these rocky and sandy roads again. We just made it there until sunset, stopped and asked some people, if there was a hotel here as this town was bigger than the others. No hotel! Well, why should there be a hotel? No tourists and no other people travel through that town. Hm... The man that we asked offered us to stay at his place. Thankfully we accepted his offer and followed him. It was such a nice and humble town. Sandy roads and lots of horses. We also saw a big dead snake on the road. Every house had at least 3-4 hammocks right next to it under a straw roof. They love their hammocks! The man who invited us was called Benito. He introduced his wife to us and offered us to stay in the house. We saw the house when we used their bathroom. The bathroom had no door, only a curtain and the house was small with only two beds. Where would they have stayed if we slept in the house? Would they have slept in their hammocks??? We were happy to set up our tent in the backyard. People were watching us, we were surrounded by children. They probably had never contact with a white person before. They had some pigs, lots of chickens and some budgies. As it was getting dark the chickens were already sitting in a big tree ready for the night. There were so many of these little flies, I got more and more bitten. Benito offered me some insect repellent. Yay! Birds were singing happily, there were so many birds! We took Benito out for dinner. His wife was still working. On our way to a restaurant we saw so many people riding their horses and doing races on these sandy roads. Okay, every family has about 10 horses!!! The everage family has about 5 members, which makes 2 horses per person. In that town were living 2500 people, that means there are bout 5000 horses!!!!! I was really amazed, felt like being thrown back in time! What a paradise for horse riders, and the long beach was not far away at all, only 3 km... When we got to the restaurant we wanted to wash our hands. A women lead us to the back and got water out of a well for us. What an adventure! It was dark when we walked back with full tummies. There was a fire going on the track. We had a nice shower, said good night and crawled to our tent, being exchausted. Lots of children were still playing around our tent. We heard the horses and the pigs. With earplugs and a covered face we fell asleep in no time. That was it for the day... A day full of new impressions...
Resume: Teacapan-Santa Cruz, 59km, 37 degrees
LINK: Photos 0341-0373 , videos 056-058
29.03.09 Mainland Mexico
Water was dropping again on our faces during the night... During the night the rooster went crazy and gave a big concert, I have never heard so many roosters! The birds were singing in the morning and we could hear the pigs. The chickens were walking around our tent. After we got up Benito and his wife showed us young chickens, they were only 8 days old. I had one in my hand, it was so cute! While we were packing up lots of people were watching us again. What do they think when they see us with these great bikes, lots of bags and a tent... It was such a lovely family. I felt sad saying goodbye to these lovely people. They were so hospitable and humble, so nice... We left beautiful Santa Cruz and rode throught the Everglades-like wetlands. There were lots of mangrove trees and loads of birds. There was a dead horse on the side of the road, probably hit by a car. We were heading back into the more modern civilisation roads with more traffic and stopped in Santiago for the night, we found a nice hotel in the center. I went to bed at 7pm and didn't get up anymore... All in a sudden my legs were getting itchy, I saw lots of bites... We had a dark room this time without any street lights in front of our window!
Resume: Santa Cruz-Santiago, 68km, 42 degrees
LINK: Photos 0374-0392
30.03.09 Mainland Mexico
What a night! My legs were so itchy and they were burning like crazy!I had hardly any sleep and tried not to move. I looked at my legs, I was covered with bites, maybe 150 bites or more per leg... My arms also got a load. As soon as the pharmacy opened I got insect repellend cream and cream for the bites.This city was so different from Esquinapa. They had about the same size, a middle sized city. Every city has a church, a square right next to it and a market. But Santiago had hardly any street food, but big supermarkets. And the square was more open and wider, this town was more modern. Every place has been so different so far. We left in the morning, rode through some hills and ended up in a flat area again. We passed lots of mango and banana trees. I thought of riding through the Baja with all its cacti, in Teacapan and in the wetlands we passed lots of palm trees and mangrove trees and pepper fields. The scenery just keeps changing and changing. We passed lots of restaurants on the side of the road. Most of them are in villages, and lots of them have loud music going, when I say loud, I mean loud, very loud! They love their music! We saw many flat snakes on the road and one iguana, as well other rottening animals on the side of the road. The flat animals on the side of the road are so flat, but they still seemed to be 3-dimensional as you can see so many details. We stopped at a tiny food stand in 'Villa Hidalgo' for some strength and then kept on going. The road was flat and straight, we had strong head wind and Bhinti rode in front of me to draft me. We just kept going and going, through these beautiful wetlands again... and... after a while we arrived finally in San Blas at about 5pm. We found a nice hotel with kitchen and table. I had a great shower. What a good feeling, after riding for hours in the heat and dust! My bites were still so itchy. We heard lizzards in our room, I liked it, it reminded me of the time when Bhinti and I met in India last year. What can I say, I was glad to be in the horizontal, another early night...
Resume: Santiago-San Blas, 60km, 42 degrees.
LINK: Photos 0393-0398